Is it worth going to Shikoku? Part 2

From my last post, you might think the main reason for visiting Shikoku is the food. Steve makes this case, and I have a hard time arguing with it. We consumed amazing meals; tasted the freshest seafood we have ever eaten. We ate most of it in simple, inexpensive settings, like the marvelous food court in central Kochi.

Hirome Ichiba contains dozens upon dozens of stalls selling all kinds of food and drink. On the Monday night we were there, the scene was every bit as lively as the beer halls of Munich or Singapore’s hawker centers.

We ordered several dishes. One was this delicious eel, one of my favorite types of seafood.

I doubt I’ll ever forget the seared bonita we got for lunch the next day in a little fishing village on Shikoku’s Pacific coast.

Its freshness was stunning. And the total bill for both of us was $12.75.

Still, we enjoyed more than just the food. Think of the following as postcards from some highlights.

Our time in the mountain villages took us back in time.

This is the matriarch of a family that for four generations has run the Japanese inn where we stayed. She still appears to do a lot of the cooking.
The dinners and breakfasts included with our stay were delicious.
All the rooms are Japanese style. This was ours.
Our hostess was tiny in stature but bright and welcoming in spirit.

Not just the mountains on Shikoku are wild. So are most of the rivers.

We took a short, placid cruise on the Yoshino River through Oboke Gorge. but if we’d wanted to ride some rapids, that was an option just downstream.
The geology of the gorge is striking.

The next day we drove along the Shimanto, known as the last wild river in Japan. No dam has been built along its course.

Many bridges like this one span the Shimanto. The absence of railings is intended to make the structures less vulnerable to being swept away by floods. Neither of us was eager to walk all the way across one of the chinkabashi. But it was fun to watch a steady driver motor across.

We got a strong reminder of the potential menace of the sea in the little fishing village where we ate the world-class lunch.

This way to a tsunami evacuation shelter.
Posters warned that a tsunami could roll in and wreck havoc within minutes of a quake offshore.
Steve and I found one of the town’s tsunami evacuation towers. It’s that round thing in the distance.
We climbed it and at the top enjoyed a lovely seascape. A couple of local old guys were also up there, shooting the breeze.

With all the danger on land and sea, I could understand how Shikoku residents might develop a rich mythology about the creatures — occasionally helpful but often evil or malicious — lurking in the landscape. They’re called yokai, and we spent an entertaining hour at a museum in the Oboke Gorge that explains a lot about them.

This is a tanuki, an evil “raccoon dog.”

Who wouldn’t want to visit a place inhabited by the likes of those guys? So my answer to the question of whether it’s worth visiting Shikoku is an emphatic hai!

2 thoughts on “Is it worth going to Shikoku? Part 2

  1. czatkin's avatar czatkin October 7, 2024 / 5:50 am

    I just binged on your last five blogs and forwarded them to Kazumi and Geoff. I can see why Kazumi said she admired you driving in Japan. Some of it looked scary, but it got you to beautiful places. The vine bridges remind me of ones I cautiously crossed in Nepal. The scarecrow people were charming, but also somehow unnerving.

    It sounds and looks like a fascinating trip. I look forward to more reading on a more regular basis.

    • jdewyze's avatar jdewyze October 7, 2024 / 11:50 am

      Hi Christy,
      It’s been fantastic. Thanks as always for reading and commenting! It motivates me. Looking forward to talking in person soon!

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